Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year

Greetings and Salutations!

So, today is the last day of classes in the high school, all the members of my family are in the house for Christmas, and I just got back from Ancash and Lima. So much change in so little time, but this is the life of the Peace Corps Volunteer.

All the kids are done with school for the year. Remember that it is summer here right now, and the temperature is climbing every day. The sun here is so different. It is so incredibly strong. I burn after just a cupla hours without sunscreen. This is unheard of in my life up to this point. So, yes, I wear sunscreen (and bug spray) every time I’m outdoors and have an inch of skin exposed. Anyway, I will join the teachers next week for a few days at the school. They will be there all week to be finalize grades and be available to talk to parents. I’ve got a photo-sharing date with one of the professors on Monday, and (I’m so stoked) they invited me to join in their secret gift exchange on Tuesday. I haven’t felt extremely welcomed by the teachers. They have all been nice, but I don’t feel like one of the team yet. They are probably just as confused as I am about what my role exactly is, so there is probably some threatened feelings going on, if I had to guess. I have been trying to get some one-on-one time with each of them, but this is sort of difficult since they are at work, but I can tell that I’m wearing ‘em down. By next year at this time, we will all be best buds. I am invited also to the high school graduation. There are 32 kiddos graduating. Such a complicated time. Probably less than 10% will go on to university. It is extremely complicated and difficult to get into college here unless your family has the funds to pay for a private education.

My sister-in-law, Miryam, came home about a month ago, but Christian’s (my brother) job was completely finished, so he just got home five days ago. Tito got home two days ago. They will get to stay until after the New Year. It is nice having everyone here for the first time since I got here. I must say that it does not at all feel like Christmas. The biggest contributor is the 85 ̊ weather, but also that my family has no decorationsL. I got the opportunity to decorate a tree at my host family’s house in Chaclacayo when I was there for training last week, so that was nice. I looked at buying a tree, but a teeny tiny tabletop tree is S/.30! Then plus decorations, I could not afford to buy it and presents for the family, so we will just not have a tree this year. My town has a big celebration for New Year, so my students have been asking me for over a month if I am going to spend the holidays in town. There are a lot of volunteers who have loved ones coming in and are going to vacation in tourist sites, but I JUST GOT HERE. Even if I had an uber-rich family that was chompin at the bit to come see me, I would have to insist that they not come. I am still integrating and what a better way to do that than to spend one of the most important holidays with the family and community. It is going to be different, but that’s every day, and ya know what? I kinda like it.

Since I’m talking about Christmas, I have to tell you guys about “paneton” (pronounced “pawn-e-tone”). It is an unbelievably popular tradition here. I explained in my last blog about how there is little variety here. Well, paneton is served at all holiday parties and meals. EVERYONE loves it. They actively look forward to it. There are 20 pods stacked 8-ft high in every store in the country. Ready for this? Paneton is…….fruitcake. Bleh! The smell of it turns my stomach and every bakery and every store in every town in Peru reeks of fruitcake right now. No one understands how I can’t like fruitcake. “It is so delicious, D.D.! It’s cake with real fruit.” No, it’s dry bread with artificially flavored fruit gummies and raisins. I like raisins, but if you consider raisins a candy, you are probably over the age of 85. Gag me! I’ve tried twice now to force a whole piece down, but I was unsuccessful in both attempts. I could get down a few bites, then I tasted it until the next available opportunity to brush my teeth. Don’t understand the obsession here. Gotta love those cultural differences!

My trip to Ancash was fabulous. My good friend, Rebecca, part of the 3DO neighborhood posse from training, lives there. Here is a map. It was about a 12 hour bus ride with a 4 hour layover in Trujillo which was perfect because I got to see five or six of my buddies from training that live close to that capital city for the first time since training. Caroline, the other 3DOer that lives in Lambayeque, went with me to Ancash. We met up with three other Volunteers, and spent three days together in Huaraz, the capital city. Ancash is a department in the sierra. We celebrated Thanksgiving with a big hen (my Uncle Tom would be so proud that we didn’t have turkey), some dressing made from ciabatti bread without sage, some weird cranberry concoction, and sweet potato pie-ish thingy that was yummy. Then we actually got the Cowboy game in Peru! It was in Spanish, but who cares?

View from the hostel

How bout them Cowboys?

The next day we took a hike all day, saw some gorgeous mountains, some ancient ruins, a waterfall, and a bunch of traditionally dressed ladies herding their sheep. That night we ate hamburgers that are more like American hamburgers than any other burger I have tried in this country up to this point. In other words that patty was thicker than paper and there were no fries ON the burger. 

View from one of the Ancash Volunteer's homes

The beginning of our trek

Just a random band out in the middle of the mountains

Pre-Incan ruins

View from the top

Seriously love the traditional dress. These aren't just
sheep-herding outfits!

Aaahhhhh! Breathe it in!

Waterfalls

Cant remember what was so funny, but I
like this picture.

See that tree on left in the above photo?
I climbed it to get this pic.

So we cheated and took a cab halfway back down to the village.

The last day we decided to take a one-hour combi ride to some thermal baths that were supposed to be pretty cool. They looked promising when we got there, so we splurged on the S/.5 private cave baths. As we are waiting for a cave to become available, we overhear a lady asking the attendant about the caves. He tells her that there is no water in the caves, but they are supposed to heal what ails ya. Ok, so we gather that we just paid for a sauna, not a bath, but it was still all good until the attendant opened the door and we smacked in the face and knocked on our butts with the overwhelming smell of years of boiling urine. Yup, that’s right…pee. No, it was not the smell of the natural heat or sulfur or whatever. Gag a friggin maggot, we took pics and ran outta there. It was awful! We proceeded to the warm water pool, but the water was green…and smelled of (you guessed it) urine. When a bunch of little boys kept splashing around and got the pee water on our faces, we decided to vacate the premises. Then we ate some pachamanca, a mixture of different meats, veggies, and bread wrapped in banana leaves and cooked underground. It was mediocre. After that experience, we deserved some chocolate, so we sought out a bakery and bought some borrachitos these awesome huge chocolate brownie rum balls. That day was not the best, but it turned out to be one of those days that I will never forget and always retell.

My reaction

The pee cave

The mediocre pachamanca

View #2

After Ancash, all the Volunteers in my Youth Development Group had to go to Lima for more training. I was not at all looking forward to the 8-5 classes, but I was excited to see my host family in Chaclacayo again. They are all doing fine. The parents of the little girl that passed away are living with Trinidad (the grandma). They bought me a new pair of sandals because my most favorite flip-flops in the whole world (my Nike ones that are about 15 years old) broke a few weeks ago. I just love that family. So sweet. Training was training. It was better than the original 10 weeks because our boss gave us two really great snack breaks every day and we learned tools/programs/resources that we will most likely use in our communities. On our way back home, my friends Caroline and Rebecca and I went to Miraflores, a ritzy part of Lima. You would think you were in an American beach town. There’s a really nice mall and a lot of surfers. We did lunch and a little shopping and just wondering around.

Don’t have much else to say. I wish everyone a super Merry Christmas! Send happy thoughts of Santa Claus (here he is called “Papa Noel”) and jingle bells (here they are called “jingle bells” Really everyone knows the song.) my way. Miss you all!

Compressed October

Hello, hello.

Quick update on the events of October:

Went to 8 birthday parties, including my own. Only my closest friends and family were invited to a little get together at my house with a little wine, dancing, food, and cake. I got 12 gifts! A good time was had by all.

Pot 'o Pollo (Chicken, that is)

It tasted as good as it looks

My Spanish tutor and friend, Alfredo

My most involved colleagues and friends,
Ketty and Miryam, representatives of La Cria in
the municipality in Patapo

Miryam and me getting down

No, seriously, we were getting down

Ketty's daughter

They sing "Happy Birthday" here in English...
and in Spanish

My "Hora Loca," where everyone took turns dancing with
me while everybody else danced around me in a circle.
Super fun!

All my gifts, coin purse made out of shells, a doll bank, a blouse,
jewelry box, necklace, perfume, etc.

There was an International Song Festival in Patapo (like my county seat). It occurs every October. The contestants from different countries (yes, mostly from Peru) sing songs that they themselves have written. There are also acts from famous other singers and comedians and celebrities. I’ve got an “in” with the mayor, so I got to be backstage and meet all the famous folks and sit in this balcony with all the other important people. It was kinda cool, but at the same time, I felt like I was acting super superior to the “common folks” that are my friends, students, colleagues, and relatives that were in attendance. Plus, I couldn't get pictures. Social hierarchies are engrained in the culture here, and I feel much more comfortable being on the bottom rungs. However, the overall experience was enjoyable and I made some great professional connections that weekend.

The man on the left is my mayor, a position of great authority
here.

Me and Michelle, a famous chick here.
She's on a game show kinda like American
Gladiators, but silly. It's called Esto es Guerra,
This is War

Miryam with Michelle, and another famous actor, Erick.
He's in a super popular show called Al Fondo, Hay Sitio,
There's Room in the Back.

This is the Volunteer leader of my department, Zack. He sang
in the contest, made it to the finals, but didn't win.
His song was still awesome!

My host dad’s family owns a small farm with banana trees, avocado trees, and snap peas. It is right next to the river, and although I was wearing my bathing suit, my host mom thought it best that I not swim all the way because I had a little cough. Only the peas were ripe and pickable, but it was nice to see the family farm and spend time with them.

I honestly cant remember what type of fruit this is. I think
maricuya, but it wasnt ripe yet,

Mauricio and platanos, bananas

Peas... and my hand

Avacados

Mauri, Dayhana, and me in the river

There was a fair in town, celebrating Saint Cautivo de Ayabaca. There constantly a band playing all day and all night during the entire weekend. There were traditional dance contests, horse riding shows, cooking contests, and games/rides for the kiddos. My little sister was taken to the “salta salta” (trampoline) every night for nearly two weeks. My favorite part was the street food! Anticuchos (cow heart on a stick, delicious!), salchipollo (French fries with chicken and mayo), cotton candy, and all the sweets of Peru!

Girlie band, the first night

The band that was ever present.
Check the cymbol player.

Mariachi band

Grand Finale!

Game where you throw coins and if you make it in the center
of one of these squares, you claim that amount. I think I won
20 cents once.

Salta, salta

My sister and cousins in the ball pit

I took part in a parade through town with the kids, mainly from the elementary school, but there were a few from the high school, for Children with Disabilities Day. There was a lunch afterwards, and the kids performed songs and dances.

Two high school girlies that contributed a poster

The chicos of sixth grade

(Some of) The chicas of sixth grade

Some of the posters created for the event

The Pre-game line-up

The town judge of principal of the elementary school
led the procession

Circling the park

Heading back to the school

I also helped out a little with a conference in Chiclayo for the children of my department who have participated in one of Peace Corps’ sexual education programs, called “Pasos Adelante” (Steps Forward). Even though I am too new to have a group of my own, it is something that I am interested in doing at my site because over 10% of my high school aged girls will become pregnant before graduating. I was lucky enough to have my town’s obstetrician join me at the conference. We played many games involving healthy sexual practices and youth leadership. The conference concluded with a speech from a teen mom whose children are now grown. It was a good experience.

The classic condom on the banana demo

Intense deliberation over the Jeopardy question,
"Name three mthods of AIDS transmission."

Making paper airplanes

Flying paper airplanes

Of course, games!

My cousin’s family has a huge papaya farm. My sisters, cousin, and I took a little trek through it one day. It was so pretty that day under this big mountain (It’s a mountain to this Texas girl; the locals all call it a hill since the Andies are in our backyard.), and I had one of those moments of clarity where everything seems right with the world. Also, the papayas were the most gigantic papayas that I have ever seen.

My little sisters, how adorable!

Absolutely HUGE!

My cousin, Shirli.

Gorgeous scenery. Just a little hill...

This is my favorite. I had to put it in here.

Mango tree in another chacra close by.
Just one more month til mango season!

Yessica in the mango tree

It was the anniversary of my high school this month which is a huge deal here. There were sports days and speech, academic, classroom decorating, and food contests with each class competing against each other. Also, a beauty contest with your truly as a judges. Those of you who know me well are probably a little surprised by this. One of those fine messes that my low-level Spanish got me into. The principal and a few professors asked me to be a “juradora” for the “reinata.” Having no idea as to what either one of those things are, I, of course, readily agreed. Trying to integrate, get involved, you understand. It was one of the most horrible experiences of my life. I hate judging people based on outward appearance alone and do my best not to, but especially when the outward appearances being judged are those of young vulnerable teenage girls. There was one portion of the contest that was based on their oratory, but the other two male judges had their minds made up directly after the preliminary introductory dance. After the winners were announced, I was sure that I would be booed outta town by a mad mob with pitchforks and molitaf cocktails, so I got outta dodge like a crazed mall-walker as soon as I possibly could. Of course, you can’t please all of the people, but nobody cursed me or threw anything at me, so it was not a total disaster. I talked to the principal a few days later and asked never to be involved in anything as a judge ever again. The benefit of the experience has given me ideas about how to promote female beauty in other more productive ways based on ability rather than just appearance.

"Periodico Mural," Newspaper Mural. The students write articles
like for a school newspaper.

Boys soccer game

Like the pic of Dayhana in the papya field,
I had to put this one in here.
Beckham!

Next year, I'm going to push for co-ed games

Girl's volleyball game

Traditional Peruvian dishes from different regions

The chefs of first grade

Cleaning the classes in prep for "My Favorite Classroom"

"My Favorite Classroom" competition

The lovely contestants of the high school
beauty competition

The MCs, Profesor Fenco and Sandy, senior

The supporters of the first grade competitor

The judges table

I celebrated Halloween with my fellow Peace Corps volunteers in my capital city, Chiclayo. We all dressed up. Once again, forever the outcast that stays secluded at my site and doesn’t know what all the cool kids are doing because I don’t have Facebook, I made my own zombie costume while nearly everyone else came as a pirate. Whatever. I’ll take variety any day over conformity. I had a fairly good time, and was glad that I got to dress up. Sorry, forgot to take a pic of my zombie get-up.

October 31^st/November 1^st is celebrated as “Dia de Los Muertos,” Day of the Dead. I went with my family to the cemetery to recognize the lives of the lost family members. Family elders made little speeches, and we sang songs, and lit candles. I hear that other families are much more traditional and bring gifts of food and trinkets to their loved ones’ grave or have little shrines in their houses commemorating them, but my family did not do this. However, I still really enjoyed participating in a cultural tradition.

I will leave you with a few links of Peace Corps related videos that you may enjoy:

Flash mob at the Ambassador's house, led by Pablo, my amazing language facilitator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYAgFW9x6lA

SO TRUE! THIS IS MY LIFE: (except #6 and #8 <minus the moos>):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVy24vvJlD8

LOL for me, hope this isnt one of those "you have to be there" funnies cuz I nearly fell outta my chair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toz4_vPmmIA

I don't expect you to understand this. I have been here for six months now, and I still don't get it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQ_E0jbIGxM

Unofficial Peace Corps Anthem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koUWaAr-itY